This view took my breath away!

About 90 minutes south of Be'er Sheva, on the way to Eilat, is a view that will take your breath away.

Mitspe Ramon is the world's largest erosion crater, and the 5th largest crater in the world. I've never been to the Grand Canyon, so this was my first time seeing anything like this. It was incredible!

This overlook looks like a camel!

This was part 2 of my Hanukah and Christmas adventure, as a friend and I were dropped off in Be'er Sheva on Christmas Eve and we took a bus to Mitspe Ramon. 

The crater got its name from the Romans who came through here on the spice route during the Roman Empire. "Mitspe" means "viewpoint".

The funny thing is, we read about Mitspe Ramon in my Hebrew class this semester, and a few days before, I'd even had a test over that material. So it was fresh in my mind as I got to explore the place firsthand. #fieldtrip

Being afraid of heights, I took great care not to get too close to any edges (thankfully, below, there was a low wall). The view was incredible. There's a promenade that goes along the crater and also leads to paths you can take to hike down into it. We didn't do this because we were low on time and weren't prepared to do so. Even though it was winter, it wasn't too cold; I ended up rolling up my pants and taking off my jacket.

People and ibexes hanging out below!

These animals, ibexes, are so beautiful! And they were amazing to watch, just walking along the cliff edges and up the crater like it was solid, flat ground. I was jealous of their balance and lack-of fear of heights, haha! They were even walking around the town, like you'd see a stray cat or dog doing. So funny.

Mitspe Ramon was a perfect Christmas adventure. We spent the morning at the canyon and then headed out to Avdat National Park in the afternoon. The next morning, I came out one more time for time with God by the canyon. The winter rains were about to start, and it was much colder and windier, but the view was still amazing:

Beautiful!

Hiking in the Wilderness of Zin

It's not everyday that after you go hiking, you hear, "Yeah, we're currently in the Wilderness of Zin. This is part of where the Israelites wandered for 40 years."

Wow!

The last part of my Christmas/Hanukah 2022 adventure included a close hike from Tamar Park. The desert here is so interesting because it is red (hence "Edom", which means "red" in Hebrew), there are these crazy formations everywhere. I'm not exactly sure what I pictured the Israelites wandering in, but I think I pictured it flatter, definitely.

As for its 'red' nature, that didn't throw me (though it was cool to be in the land of Esau!). As any good Georgia girl knows, dirt is red. What other color would it be?

So, the hike was fun. We went around this hill, into a canyon inside it, and then up.

Did I mention that I'm afraid of heights? And Israel's trails, unlike the ones in the US, do not have handrails or metal lines to break a fall. That's something I haven't gotten used to here yet. Thankfully, I was with kind friends who encouraged me (especially on the way down)!

The view from the top was worth it:

The below tower has 12 stones. It's for the 12 tribes of Israel!

Amazing! What wasn't amazing was the rain that started once we all got there. Actually... any time it rains in the desert it is amazing. It just made the descent more scary, though we went down before it got too slick.

My friend also pointed out something I'd never thought of. I'm a very literal thinking, so when I read that the Israelites followed a cloud, I picture them walking behind one. But it likely covered them, giving shade in the sweltering sun. Can you imagine not only wandering in the wilderness for 40 years, seeing the same places over and over, your clothes and sandals not wearing out, and being blessed in the shade even while being disciplined for lack of faith? I imagine the pillar of fire also kept them warm on cold desert nights. I think even wandering in a desert that had interesting, varied topography and wasn't unendingly straight was also a grace, because a person could go mad plodding on and on without anything new to look at. 

Now that I've had a peek of the Wilderness of Zin, it's so much easier to picture!

And, last night in my devotions, I read Exodus 16, where God first sent the manna and quail. Guess where that was? Yup- you got it right- the wilderness of Zin!

Searching for Brimstone near Sodom

Well, if there's one thing I didn't think I'd ever do, especially on Christmas Eve Eve, it was searching for brimstone on top of giant mounds of ash below Masada, and then setting them on fire.

It was not unlike searching for Easter eggs, except with a devastatingly sobering impact as the meaning of what we found sunk in.

This is what they look like when burned in the daytime. Can you see the molten swirls of red and orange? It's hard to describe without a video, but it moves like liquid, like lava. It's fumes are putrid; we had to be careful to stand in the opposite direction the wind was blowing. 

This is what it looks like burning in the dark:

I wanted to show you the end of this journey before showing you what the brimstone looks like now, and what the search was like, because that was actually fun. But this—this isn't fun. This is what fell on the 5 Cities of the Plain (notice, it says "plain", not desert) when God destroyed it in Genesis 18-19. Before it was desert, it was a beautiful, verdant plain in the Jordan Valley, so lush that Lot CHOSE to live there when Abraham let him decide. 

After burning just one piece of sulfur, it was clear how everything would be utterly destroyed. It was stunning. (The nighttime images had more than 1 burning at a time). It's literally molten liquid, sulfuric, hotter than regular fire... did I mention putrid?

The area of the Dead Sea, the 'plain' that is now a desert, is HUGE. There were thousands of people living here, deliriously indulging in every sin and decadence they could. Abraham pleaded with God not to destroy the city if He even found 10 righteous people, and when only Lot's family were identified as righteous, God kept His word.

It's interesting to note that the Great Rift Valley goes from Lebanon to Mozambique. It's a giant crack in the center of the earth, with this valley in Israel right in the middle of it. Because of it, giant earthquakes have destroyed civilizations and killed millions over the years. 

A friend pointed out to me: could the Great Rift Valley actually be a result of God raining down brimstone and fire on the 5 Cities of the Plain in Genesis? Could that destruction actually have pierced the tectonic plates under the earth? Could they have broken under the weight of sin's impact?

Not only that, but this is what Revelation 20:10 says about Satan's future: "and the devil that deceived them was cast into the lake of fire and brimstone, where the beast and false prophet are, and they will be tormented day and night forever and ever."

This is what is burning in hell. 

After seeing brimstone burn, I understand how it is liquid-like in its movement and consistency when burning. I've smelled it (accidentally got in the path of the wind for a minute), and it left me gagging. I've seen it swirl and flow as it burned. 

It's not funny or a good time. It's eternal torment for those who do not follow Jesus as Lord. 

It's amazing to me that 4000 years after God utterly destroyed the Cities of the Plain that you can find brimstone lying on top of the ground after a winter rain in the desert. The remains of this devastation still exist today—just this. You don't find any archaeological ruins for any of these cities that you can climb on, photograph, and imagine what life was like in its heyday. 

Not, at least, like you'd expect.

Because in the area are these places where the sand is white, like here right below Masada. 

Actually, it's not sand. It's ash. These ARE the archeological ruins, blown around for millennia, baking in the desert heat.

And, inside of them are brimstone. In the winter after the rain, the top layer of ash flows away and the lower layers emerge. That's the best time to find brimstone, walking in the water paths.

We were there right after rain, and it made the ash hills so fun to run around on (I realize how that sounds). With every step, you'd sink about 1-2 inches into the ash, but it gave you a great grip. For once I wasn't afraid of heights, because falling wasn't going to be possible for more than a few feet—and the ash was soft. 

And then, there it was:

My friend found one to show us, and then we were able to find more. These are small, yellowish balls that are around the size of a quarter to a golf ball (harder to find). You can pick them up with your bare hands, but my palms tingled a bit after, and a friend who wiped her mouth later said it stung. It smelled like Florida water to me (sulfuric). 

There are scientists who say that these are from a volcanic eruption many years ago. I'm not even sure if there is a volcano nearby this area. But even if there is, there are volcanoes all over the world, and in NONE of those locations have brimstone been found over the past 4,000 years (for some of this time, this area was under water. The Dead Sea shrinks several feet a year, so the ground underneath has been revealed more and more over time). I see this as proof of the Biblical account, testifying to Genesis 18-20.

And I'm making an assumption that these dunes are in the exact places of the Cities of the Plains. 

One more thing... as you drive south from the Dead Sea, you'll pass Mount Sodom and this interesting rock:

Do you see the one that kind of stands apart? As you drive by, you can see that is is separated from the rest of the cliff. It's locally called "Lot's wife".

I don't believe that's Lot's wife, as I'm sure a pillar of salt would have disintegrated by now, and it probably was underwater as well. I see it more as a reminder to all who pass by to not take pleasure in the debauchery and decadence of this world, a reminder to keep my eyes only on Jesus and not look back.

This desert fortress dates back to Solomon!

It's not everyday you wake up next to a fortress dating back to the time of Solomon. Needless to say, those are the days (my) dreams of made of!

But that's exactly what happened to me the weekend of Hanukah and Christmas 2022. Some friends and I were able to stay at Tamar Park, near the spring of Hazeva in the Arabah Valley of the Wilderness of Zin (part of where the Israelites wandered for 40 years).

Wow!

Being so near a spring, the location of biblical Tamara was significant, because it sat at the crossroads of ancient routes... meaning it would have been a stopping point for travelers. The archeological remains date back to the Israelite Kingdom, Nabatean, Roman, and Byzantine empires!

In 10th century B.C., the time of Solomon, this route was used to trade with Arabia, Africa, and Sheba, as is described in 1 Kings 10. Tamar is mentioned as "Tadmor" in 1 Kings 17-18. In addition to the spring, it also lay near a copper mine, which was a major trading commodity for both Kings David and Solomon. It's believed that this is why David conquered Edom in 1 Chronicles 18. Edom, which we'll talk about in a future post, is an area of the desert where the land is red. It was the ancient land of Esau. (Something that makes me wonder: it's interesting to me that the area is red, and there was copper nearby. Is there a connection here?)

Anywho, here's the entrance and the 4-chamber Solomonic gates! Remember those from Megiddo and Hazor?

But before you even enter the gates, there's actually a 4-room house dating back to 700-600 B.C. 

Nearby, archeologists found remains of shattered clay vessels used for local pagan worship. It's believed the smashing and burial of these is associated with King Josiah's reforms. 

That's it for the Israeli Kingdom history of Tamar, because this fortress was destroyed by the Assyrians in 600s B.C.

Next came the Nabateans! Underneath this fortress are the ruins of a Nabatean temple, fortress, and storage room. As with Avdat, Tamar was a stop on the ancient spice route, a 1800 kilometer, 65-day trek from Yemen/Oman to the port in Gaza.

When Nabatean King Rabbell II died in 106 A.D., Rome annexed the entire area into the Roman Empire. Tamar was known as "Thamara", and it became part of the road and defense system of the Empire.

The Romans built a square fortress with 4 towers, and later even a bathhouse and inn.

The bathhouse:

Roman construction!

In 344 A.D., an earthquake destroyed Tamar Fortress. It was rebuilt, but then the big earthquake of 363 AD destroyed it, Petra, and much of Israel. From that point, the fortress was left in ruin and never rebuilt.

During the Byzantine era, it was just a small military outpost.

From 7th-9th centuries A.D. (the early Islamic era), it was an agricultural farm. Travelers going between Mecca and Jerusalem would stop there. 

Finally, in the early 1920s, a police station was build here during the British Mandate. They actually destroyed part of the archeological remains but using those stones to construct it! I mean, I understand working smarter, not harder, and using close materials, but what a loss! 

Anyway, you can go into the police station and the underground bunker. There are photos on the walls of all of the Prime Ministers and Presidents in the bunkers, and the police station has photos and information of important Israelis and others who aided in the rebirth of Israel in the Land.

I love how light glows through the open back door of the bunker in the photo above!

Wow, what an amazing history in this place!

One more thing to feature in this blog, because it's pretty cool. According to BibleWalks*, this is the oldest tree in all of Israel. Wow! It is somewhere between 1500-2000 years old, and has survived this long because of the spring of En Hazeva! Wow! I saw the tree, but in photos it looked like a mess (and I didn't see a sign near it), so I am posting their picture below:

This tree would have been there during the Roman era! Wow!

I definitely recommend visiting Tamar park if you get a chance. It's beautiful, and it's free to walk explore the archeological park.

*I didn't have a tour and the only brochure I saw was in Hebrew, so all the information I learned about Tamar Park is from Bible Walks.