Reading the Bible with GPS

As if seeing where David killed Goliath wasn't enough, that’s not all you can see at Tel Azekah.

There are current excavations for the ancient city mentioned in Joshua 10. I thought I saw an ancient toilet, but turns out t was a stone with a hole cut out to hld a pole. The tel itself is covered in pine trees, which makes this Georgia girl’s heart so happy, especially on a clear, beautiful day in December.

At the base of the tel are fragments of pottery that are free to visitors to take.

And last but not least, on the other side of the tel is a view of Gath, the Philistine city and Goliath’s hometown (it’s the brown hill in the distance), which means you can do fun things like track the Philistines’ and Israelites’ movements on googlemaps, if you’d like.

And, before you ask, of course I did that! The best part of being in Israel is that you can read the Bible with GPS! Doing so has given me extra insight on stories I've heard my whole life. I 100% recommend it—as I do going to Tel Azekah!

This is where David Killed Goliath; need I say more?

One of the first Bible stories you’re taught as a child is David and Goliath: the shepherd-poet-turned-giant-slayer-man-after-God’s-own-heart-and-the-2nd-king-of-Israel against an over 9-foot tall guy from Gath (descendent of the Nephilim?). I've heard this story all of my life. Its picture has made it into many sermons and analogies throughout time. It's so commonplace it gets intermixed with cultural lore and mythologies we hear all of the time.

Except, this story is real.

And nothing prepares you for the moment you see where it happened.

When I realized I could go to the very place where David slew Goliath, I looked forward to it for months. I was such a nerd about it and didn't care. This was a big one!

And, there it then there it was: the Valley of Elah.

1 Samuel 17 describes the scene: 2 hills with a small valley between them. The Israelites camped on the right side of those hills and the Philistines on the left, and the battle happened in the small valley between them.

Can you picture it?

The stream David gathered stones from ran along the valley, following the line of the current highway, before turning to enter the valley itself.

At the top of one of those hills are some ruins, but you need 4-wheel drive to get up there. From Tel Azekah, you can see the valley from above while your tour guide reads the story for you. It’s so real that for a second, you see the slight frame of a 16-year-old boy entering the valley in your mind’s eye.

Epic doesn't begin to describe it.

Israeli influencers Sergio and Rhoda went there in 2021, and I watched the video after visiting myself (I always need to visit before watching or reading about a place!). I loved that they did, because they tested the sound, tried out a sling, and looked for the stream. It's such a good adventure that I wanted to share it here:

If you watch it, let me know what you think!

I'd love to go back to the Valley of Elah one day and do the 4-wheeling tour up to the ruins, maybe run around below and search for the stream. What an incredible place!

Can a nation be built in a day?

Isaiah 66:8 asks the impossible question: "Can a country be born in a day, or a nation be brought forth in a moment?"

On May 14, 1948, that's what happened when the nation of Israel was re-born in the Land.

While definitely the most clear example, that's not the only way this impossible question was answered by the rebirth of Israel. 

Beside Gan HaShlosha is the park of Tel Amal, which is an exact replica of the first Stockade and Tower Settlement of Tel Amal, which was built December 1936.

According to this site, Tel Amal was the first settlement of its kind. It was literally raised in a day, and became a model for 57 other settlements throughout Israel between 1936-1939.

The element of surprise was crucial, so that they couldn't be stopped. Everything was pre-fabricated and then constructed on-site in 1 day. The walls were filled with gravel that would stop bullets. And you can see from the map above, that these literally helped form the modern boundaries of Israel, as they were built along the borders, in Jewish areas.

Today, at Tel Amal, you can tour the settlement. Visitors go on a journey with characters in a film (based on the original settlers) as they prepare and then build the settlement.

Then, you can walk around and see:

The living quarters

The office

kitchen/laundry

You can also climb the tower and look around. It's an incredible view, with the kibbutz Nir David and the Amal stream on one side, Gan HaShlosha on another, and Mount Gilboa alongside.

Finally, have you ever heard the term, "Sabra"? It's the fruit of a cactus, and is a nation for Israelis who were born in the Land. It's hard and spiny on the outisde, but the inside is sweet. Here is some sabra growing alongside Tel Amal.

What do you think? Is this an additional meaning to the question if a nation can be born in a day? While I believe it was pointing to May 14, 1948, how amazing that these settlements literally went up on a day and formed the boundaries of modern day Israel? I definitely see a connection there as well!

Exploring the prophet Elisha's hometown

Not far from Beit She'an is another tel. This one isn't built up into a national park; there's honestly not a lot going on with it. It's just there in a field, with beautiful 360 degree views of the Jordan Valley, Mount Gilboa, and Jordan. 

It's also believed to be the hometown of Elisha.

So one particularly warm day in January, I took a metronit to a train to a bus and then walked a lot to explore Elisha's hometown.

It took a lot longer to get there than I thought it would, mostly because one bus never came and then I tried to enter the field in a way that was blocked by barbed wire and had to back track to the road. But finally, I found the right path. 

Then, I climbed up and started to explore. 

First, can we talk about the views?

To the west, to Mount Gilboa

To the east... the mountains in the distance are Jordan (at the time of Elisha, that was still Israel).

Wow! At the top there are also dirt paths like you see above. There are motorcycle and dirt-bike tracks all over them, as well as footprints and pottery shards.

Most of the tel is smooth, but one excavated part remains open:

According to BibleWalks, Rehov was likely settled at the same time as Megiddo, and likely conquered by Egypt at the same time as Megiddo. It's passively mentioned as one of Beit She'an's towns in Judges 1:27. Around the time of David, it was conquered by Israel and eventually was part of the Northern Kingdom.

Excavations in 9 areas revealed that it was a large and prosperous city. Findings of artifacts from other countries prove the residents continued to practice Canaanite/Phoenician and Syrian traditions and customs.

It was eventually destroyed by the Assyrians in the 736 BC invasion. The Assyrians lived there for a while but then moved to Megiddo. It laid in ruins for 1500 years, and then a small Jewish town was built nearby in the Roman Era. In the Middle Ages, an Arab town settled on top.

What's most interesting about this tel are the findings in the opened excavated areas:

Found in the ruins was an apiary dating back to the 10th Century BC, with the remains of dozens of beehives in clay cylinders. This is unique for many reasons:

First, the apiary was very close to a bunch of houses. This means it was likely this was a source of income for the townspeople. 

Second, signs on the property say that when they tested the apiary, the found the bees themselves didn't originate from Israel. This particular group of bees came from Turkey! Apparently, they were less aggressive and more productive than Syrian bees.

So funny! 

It gives new meaning to the phrase "land flowing with milk and honey"!

My favorite part of the day, other than the adventure and the views, was going back from the tel and finding the local springs right beside it. Even though it was January, it was close to 80 degrees that day and I was hot! I waded in and cooled off before heading to the bus stop.

Definitely a great adventure!

An oasis near Mount Gilboa

About 10 minutes from Mount Gilboa, where Saul fell in battle, is one of the coolest natural parks I've seen in Israel.

Fed by the Amal stream, Gan HaShlosha is an incredible oasis on a hot day. It stays at a constant 28 degrees celsius, or 82 degrees Fahrenheit, so it is even swim-able in the winter.

On a hot Friday in August, it felt like paradise. Surrounded by grass (GRASS!! still green!) and trees swaying in the wind, practically in the shadow of the mountain cursed by David after Saul’s death, these natural pools are an amazing place to explore- and cool off!

I can understand why a movie called "Garden of Eden" was filmed here... just be ready for some fish to nibble at your ankles!

What and Where is the Kidron Valley?

The Kidron Valley, which separates the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives is one of those historical places you can just walk past without even knowing you did.

You'll walk along it along the eastern side of the Temple Mount, and have to cross it in order to get to the Garden of Gethsemane and Dominus Flevit, among other things. But the sign explaining it is down in the cemetery.

Back in the day of David, the upper part of this valley was known as the King's Garden, or the King's Valley, and David ran through it when he fled Absolam. 

It's also believed that King Jehoshaphat overthrew Israel's enemies in 2 Chronicles 26 there, and in 2 Chronicles 29-31, as the Levites carried out Hezekiah's instructions to purify the Temple and tossed unclean items into the valley.

Jesus and His disciples would have crossed this valley whenever they entered or left Jerusalem and travelled to Bethany, and of course, when going to/from the Garden of Gethsemane (John 18). 

It's also mentioned one more time in the Old Testament the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the word "Jehoshaphat" means "God has Judged", and according to Joel 3:

“In those days and at that time,

    when I restore the fortunes of Judah and Jerusalem,

2 

I will gather all nations

    and bring them down to the Valley of Jehoshaphat.[b]

There I will put them on trial

    for what they did to my inheritance, my people Israel,

because they scattered my people among the nations

    and divided up my land" (verses 1-2)

In the spring, the Kidron river runs through here, and the grass is green. It's beautiful to see! But this is how it looks in the heat of July:

It also holds Jerusalem's oldest cemetery. You can see Absolam's pillar in the distance. Further down there are caves dating to the 9th and 7th centuries B.C. 

Until it connects with the Hinnom Valley and travels out to the Dead Sea. But that's a post for another day!

Here's my question for now: In Zechariah 14, the prophecy of Jesus' second coming is that His feet will stand on the Mount of Olives, which will split in two. Water will flow towards the east and west, into the Mediterranean and into the Dead Sea, which will come back to life. 

If this is a river valley (though very dry when I took these pictures), and it leads to the Dead Sea, is this the route the eastbound river will take?

Whitewashed Tombs along the Mount of Olives

One of the many things I recommend doing while in Jerusalem is walking along the Mount of Olives. It's an incredible view of so many historic places that your mind will be continually blown. So much history in such a concentrated to area!

If you are coming from the City of David, you'll turn the corner and cross the street. The Eastern Wall of the Temple Mount will be on your left and the Mount of Olives on your right. Walking along the low stone wall, you'll be able to see the Mount in its entirety while seeking shade from the—you guessed it—olive trees.

A large portion of the Mount of Olives is a Jewish cemetery that faces the Temple Mount. From a distance, most of the graves look similar except for two. These stick out and can be seen from a distance. Do you know what they are?

The pillar above is Absolam's pillar, as spoken of in 2 Samuel 18. The one below is the prophet Zechariah's tomb.

You can actually walk right up to these pillars. They are HUGE! First, you cross over the Kidron Valley and start walking along it (we'll talk about this more in a future post). 

On the wall are signs with Bible verses specifically mentioning the Kidron Valley:

And then, there you are:

It's always cool to see something dating back millennia that is from the Bible. Nothing compares to that feeling. But a friend pointed something out to me that I want to share here:

While the architecture and the Land have changed, it's easy to accept that these pillars, as well as the cemetery, could be seen by people at the Temple when Jesus said in Matthew 23: "Woe to you, teachers of the law and Pharisees, you hypocrites! You are like whitewashed tombs, which look beautiful on the outside but on the inside are full of dead men's bones and everything unclean."

Wow!!! 

That adds so much meaning and context to this verse!

Can you see it?

Exploring Hezekiah's Tunnel: How in the world did they do that?

In 2022, I described my visit to the City of David and standing outside of Hezekiah's Tunnel. My first visit there was an unusually cold weekend in March—gray, raining, and hovering in the 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. Even though the water in the tunnel stays the same temperature year-round, I didn't feel like getting my jeans wet up to above my knees and just walking around in the cold.

No, this was an adventure for summer.

So, in July, I went back, and this time walked through the Hezekiah's Tunnel.

The water felt amazing, even when it briefly flowed over my knees. At first, all I could hear was the roar of the water and people yelling/laughing... and I couldn't see anything. That stayed the same the whole time, haha. There is no light without a flashlight in there (the picture above is the view when you finally emerge from the tunnel).

This 535 meter tunnel is not straight; it winds through the rock just like the dry one.

Unfortunately, there was a middle school group of the UK behind me, and the boys, who were directly behind me were constantly yelling crude things in the dark. When we finally got to the end of the tunnel, there was a small gift shop by the Pool of Siloam that had t-shirts saying, "I survived Hezekiah's tunnel". When of the boys read it out look and I looked him dead in the eyes, "You almost didn't". 

But I digress. 

Wow, being in that tunnel in complete darkness was an experience that I'll never forget. It makes the miracle of how this tunnel was created that more incredible! 

King Hezekiah commissioned this tunnel in 2 Chronicles 32:30 (2 Kings 20:20 and Isaiah 22:9) so that Jerusalem could channel its water supply from the Gihon Spring to the Pool of Siloam. This way when the Assyrians and anyone else came to lay seige, the inhabitants still had water. 

But in order to do this quickly, as the Assyrians were already advancing towards Jerusalem, the tunnel was dug from both ends and met in the middle with only a small distance between the levels. How in the world did they do that: 2 groups of men digging in rock towards each other while underground, with varying levels of terrain, and find each other within 30 centimeters (1 foot) of each other?

Amazing!

Finally, after exiting the tunnel and putting my tennis shoes back on, we passed the pool of Siloam and entered the Promenade and the Western Stepped (Pilgrim) Road.

The promenade itself has a mural depicting what life likely looked at at the time of Herod. From that, a dating back to 1st century AD leads north and up—straight up to the Southern Steps.

Below this road was a water drainage channel. Both are about 650 meters long (almost half a mile). In the channel, artifacts like coins from the 2nd Temple period, a gold bell ornament like what was on the High Priest's robe, a Roman sword, and a clay seal. According to the brochure the park gives you, this is channel was also likely a refuge for those who felt the destruction of Jerusalem in AD 70.

All those finds prove the every day use of this road, as it was when it was above the earth (and wider) in the time of Jesus. People walked back and forth. This is likely the road the blind man took when he descended from the Temple steps to the Pool of Siloam with mud on his eyes. 

Can you see it?

Besides the fact that it is SO COOL to walk where you know Jesus and His disciples did, there was one other perk from taking this tunnel back up to the entrance of the City of David: with it being underground, we were in the shade, in the cool of the earth, getting a break from the intense July sun. That's not to mention the earlier relief of walking through water, and dipping my hat in it before putting it back on.

I definitely recommend taking the time to visit the entirety of the City of David. I'd love to go back with a tour guide, as I'm sure there's much I didn't see. It's one of my favorite places in all of Jerusalem, just because of the treasure of history that it is.

OH, and did you hear the big news? 

The Pool of Siloam is going to be fully excavated! WOW! I can't wait to go back and see it for myself!