Tuesday, December 27, 2022

Did the Magi stop here on the way to Bethlehem?

From where—and through where—did the wise men travel?


I've never really thought too much about this, although I heard once that they travelled through Petra (modern day Jordan) on their way to Bethlehem. So when I planned a trip over Christmas weekend to the Negev desert, which is south of Be'er Sheva, and therefore south of the boundaries of ancient Israel, I didn't expect to see any Biblical places, let alone find a Christmas connection.



While watching googlemaps on the bus south of Be'er Sheva to Mitspe Ramon, I saw Avdat National Park on the map. Then I saw it was originally settled by the Nabateans, the same people who lived in Petra. So then I knew I had to go.


The name "Nabatean" means "Cistern digger" in Aramaic, and their kingdom included northern Arabia, Edom (Judean Desert), Moab (Jordan), Hauran, the Negev, and Sinai. Their caravans of 10-20 camels carried spices, incense, medicinal plants, textiles, dyes, silver, and gold. Each camel carried 150-200 kilos (330-440lbs), and their handler walked before them.

The route was over 1800 kilometers (1120 miles!) in the desert—a 65-day trek. Along the way were stations where the caravans could rest, replenish provisions, and trade out camels.


It turns out that Avdat was station number 62 on the ancient Incense Route (Spice Route) from 300 BC- 300 AD that went from Yemen to Gaza, passing through Petra. So if the wise men did travel through Petra and then north to Bethlehem, they would have passed by Avdat. Maybe they even stopped there briefly! 

Could the star have been visible from here?


As with all ancient roadways, they have become modern roads. So, the highway that passes Advat is likely the Spice Route. 


After Nabatean King Rabbel II died in 106 AD, the Nabatean kingdom was annexed to the Roman Empire, who then built onto the area. After them came the Byzantines. So, on top of this tel is a WEALTH of archeological structures, not to mention the view!

We had less than 90 minutes to explore the whole structure, which was almost impossible. But we made it by just skipping a few areas that were less interesting to us. You can basically picture me running up the mountain, camera in hand determined to explore the entire tel. It was so much fun! 

So, here's part of my self-tour of Avdat, starting with a home from Roman times:

LOVE all these arches!


(a lot of wine was made here... they found 14 winepresses!)


The main complex at the top is HUGE! There were 2 Nabatean temples and 2 Byzantine churches (one was a monastery)... and it was all attached to a Roman fortress!


the entire complex from below (photos above and below)



Nabatean temple
just part of the view!

One of the Byzantine-era churches (the other was a monastery) and has graves with Greek-inscribed grave stones in it. Christianity came to the region during the Byzantine period, and it became the official religion. The remaining Nabateans accepted the new faith and replaced their script with Greek. 
Another Nabatean temple


Peek-a-boo!
I mean, this view!


Then, onto the Roman Fortress, which had a tower where you could view the entire complex:


In the photo above, the closer ruins are Nabatean, the farther ones (top right) are from the Roman army camp.

When you leave the fortress, immediately in front of you is a massive wine press and the remains of the Byzantine settlement, which was destroyed in a massive earthquake. Throughout the route through the 'neighborhood' there are some excavations and neat finds (apparently, somewhere in there is a Nabatean pottery shop):




Love the double arches below! #mcdonalds?







Then, you exit by the southern Roman tower (which, at the time I thought was locked, but 2 pictures above have people on top of it, so that was a missed opportunity):



Finally, you walk past the caravan (pictured above), and see one more Roman villa:


Talk about incredible! I love a room with a view!





And what a view it is!





The view towards the main part of the tel:


We made it down just as the park was closing, and while we waited for the bus, got to see the sun set (It sets at 4:30pm in the winter):




What an amazing adventure, which was extra-special because of exploring this place on Christmas day!

What did you think of it? What do you know about the wise men?

By the way, I hope you had a Merry Christmas and have a wonderful New Year! See you then!

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